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Customers most agreed on the following attributes:
Put two of these in my rack-mount to switch power to my DSL modem and my wireless access point. They work fine! I suspect "cockpit error" on some of these reviews. For instance, you DON'T solder to the switch! You solder to a female spade connector, (three, actually) and push them onto the switch. And over 6 amps for a relay?!? NO WAY. Maybe directly to a headlight, but not a relay. Super easy to mount: drill a 1/2 inch hole. It's just that easy.
from Wisconsin on 4/7/2008
I used this as a power switch for a PC power supply I converted for benchtop use (powering RC battery chargers etc) and it works great. The overall length is a little bit long but other than that, it works beautifully.
I use the switch to control a relay for fog lamps. The first switch was well made, lasting 2 years. Recently, the bulb vibrated downward, close to the spring-loaded center pin mounted in the translucent plastic rocker, which softened and stretched when I attempted to shut the switch off(I could not). The switch was passing 8.60 amps.
I bought a new switch and removed the bulb to prevent the same problem. It lasted one day before failing in the same way, without a bulb and passing 8.60 amps.
Perhaps they have a vendor in China making these things now from more thermally sensitive plastic.
Could use a schematic example. The load is shorted to ground. Need to connect pos(+) power to power, neg(-) to ground, and from LOAD (center blade) run a lead out to + side of whatever you are powering. Obviously the negative side of what you are powering should be to ground(-) as well.
I would have to think the folks that didn't like the switch did not properly wire it into their project. This switch worked flawlessly as a master power switch in my homebuilt airplane project.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
Bought these to make a simple switch box. I liked the fact that they are illuminated and rated at 30 Amps. The problem is that the load terminal is shorted to the ground terminal. The load terminal should pass through an LED and a resistor so that the switch is illuminated when power is switch to the load. I measured no resistance between the load and ground terminals...they are shorted! I immediately blew a fuse when I hooked up a battery and hit the switch because the switch shorts the power to ground.
It seems as though other people have had this problem, but some have had sucess with these switches. Perhaps I destroyed the them with heat when I was soldering massive 10 gauge cables to the terminals, but I still don't see how heat damage could cause this problem. After all, the only thing to damage is the LED and the resistor and any heat damage to those would like open the circuit not close it.
This leads me to believe that my problem is a manufacturers defect and even if I destroyed it by thermal damage that would mean the switch is very sensitive to failure and is not worth your money and especially not your time.
[1 of 1 customers found this review helpful]
The ground is connected to the load at all times (Switch on/off). Caused many fuses to blow in my car because it was causing a short from my ignition fuse. Be careful when attaching a source of power to the load connector. (Had fuse tap from "Always On" fuse to Power and the true load along with ignition on the load connector to make an "override" remote turn on switch.)
Great switch! I use it for emergency lighing and other emergency equiptment. Mounts easily and looks nice in the dash. The fact that it lights up when on it great too. Highly Recommended!
Great switch! I use them a lot for my emergency equipment installation business. Mounts in a round hole and looks OEM on most dashes when installed.
What Makes this Switch so Neat, Is that it Installs into a "Round" Hole vs Having to "Cut-Out" a Rectangular Hole to Install Most Other Rocker Switches...